Crafts of fashion the

232 pages, parution le 30/10/2023

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Résumé

The Crafts of Fashion: Sources covers various issues relating to know-how in fashion design and raises the crucial question of sources. Fashion encompasses a vast array of professions and crafts, and as many singular histories; how can we think about this object of study when faced with the diversity of the practices that make it up? Plaiters, tailors, embroiderers, and other model makers, often anonymous, animate the worlds of fashion and their technical cultures, but how is this technical knowledge, which is also "knowledge of the body", studied, preserved, and transmitted? This volume looks at the existing anthropological and historical traditions in this field, and examines current methodological innovations that enable us to understand this dynamic, little-explored area of research. The contributions that make up this book were given in the form of lectures as part of the research seminar Chaire CHANEL et le19M des savoir-faire de la mode at the Institut français de la mode. From the conservation of archives in a major embroidery house such as Atelier Montex, to the capture of the technical gesture in a hatmaker's workshop, to the inventory of forgotten fashion crafts, a panoramic approach is outlined, from workshop to museum. Émilie Hammen brings together voices that help us to better understand what unites these multiple ways of making fashion and passing on their savoir-faire.

Sommaire

Introduction, Émilie Hammen Interview with Bruno Pavlovsky, president of CHANEL SAS, president of CHANEL fashion, president of le19M PART 1 Archives An Ethnological Perspective on the “Artisans of Elegance” in France Anne Monjaret The Study of Embroidery Techniques in Sixteenth-Century Paris: Sources and Methods Astrid Castres Atelier Montex: Embroidery as Archive Garance Salaün PART 2 Gestures Teaching Gestures, Integrating Pictures: The Use of Books, from Dance Moves to Technical Gestures Pauline Chevalier Ephemeral History: In Pursuit of the Fleeting Caroline Evans Trades on the move : preservation and transmission Interview with Arnaud Tison by Émilie Hammen PART 3 Objects What Remains of What Has Disappeared: About a Few Costumes Preserved by the Mucem Marie-Charlotte Calafat Archives of Craftsmanship: Artisans and Techniques in Palais Galliera Collections Véronique Belloir and Émilie Hammen PART 4 Photographies Female Garment Workers in 1930s Paris: A Journalistic and Photographic Investigation Anjali Pasquion Somaradjalou Representing the French Textile Industry in the Interwar Period: Textile Expertise or Photographic Expertise? Anne-Céline Callens Face to face Laurent Poleo-Garnier PART 5 Films The Density of Film Baptiste Buob Skills on the Screen: The Labour Film Meets the Fashion Film Sarah Banon Sounds, images, editing : the making of a hat Maison Michel Priscilla Royer et Yann Malcor PART 6 Exhibitions Textiles Make Fashion: How to Exhibit Textile Craftsmanship? Esclarmonde Monteil The Exhibition of Technical Gestures Inés Moreno Exhibiting Lace in P.LACE.S Romy Cockx Contributors Biographies Bibliography

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